Last Thursday, Ajax and I explored the trifecta destinations of Dirty Harry’s Peak, Dirty Harry’s Balcony, and Dirty Harry’s Museum at Exit 38 along Washington State’s I-90. This hike reminded me of the diverse factors that go into how to make good decisions for your party, whether that includes twelve hikers or your dog.

The trailhead has a nice map that I used to gauge the approximate locations of the Museum and the Peak. I also discovered there was a lake on the map, Granite Lake, which I'd never noticed before (top, blue).
The trailhead has a nice map that I used to gauge the approximate locations of the Museum and the Peak. I also discovered there was a lake on the map, Granite Lake, which I’d never noticed before (top, blue).

Which Hike?

Obviously, a dog doesn’t have a direct vote in which hike to do, but Ajax’s comfort IS always an important consideration whenever I plan an outing. Especially since these Active Ajax Adventures were designed as a way for us to enjoy the outdoors together.

When we hiked Mt. Washington the week before, Dirty Harry loomed directly across the highway from us. Since there is still plenty of snow on trails at Exit 47, we’ve been hiking farther west. Why not compare the north-facing slopes of Mt. Washington with the south-facing slopes of Dirty Harry’s Peak? We arrived at the Dirty Harry’s Peak parking lot early enough to start hiking at 6:10 a.m. The earlier, the cooler, the better for us both.

There are plenty of great vantage points all along the hike. Catching this view of McClellan Butte reminded me that I haven't visited it in over twenty years. Maybe within the next month!
There are plenty of great vantage points on the way to the Balcony. Catching this view of McClellan Butte reminded me that I haven’t visited it in over twenty years. Maybe next month!

Make Good Decisions About Where to Stop

The next decision was where to take our first break. We could visit one, two, or all three destinations, separate hikes in their own right: Dirty Harry’s Balcony (4.4 miles and 1,600 feet of gain), Dirty Harry’s Museum (5.6 miles and 2,800 feet of gain), and Dirty Harry’s Peak (9.2 miles and 3,326 feet of gain). I wasn’t sure Ajax would be comfortable visiting all three — he is, after all, wearing a fur coat in this heat — so we stopped at The Balcony first.

Dawn (7 a.m.) looking eastward over I-90 from Dirty Harry's Balcony at Exit 38.
Dawn (7 a.m.) looking eastward over I-90 from Dirty Harry’s Balcony at Exit 38.

Having settled into a nice rhythm of water breaks every 45 minutes, we continued through the lush woods to mile 2.8 where we reached the fast-running Museum Creek. In a trip report I’d read the day before, another hiker suggested using poles to cross. I had found a suitable stick (my pole sat forgotten in the car) in case I needed one. But how would Ajax do?

Where to Cross?

I never want to take any unnecessary risks that would jeopardize my partner’s safety. I thought about securing his leash to his “suitcase harness” so I could grab him more easily if he slipped on the wet rocks. The last thing I wanted was for him to tumble downhill out of reach. At the edge of the racing water, we stood assessing the flow. I couldn’t find any “obvious way” across.

Nope. Too risky.

I actually turned us around. Maybe we could explore the Museum or check out the Ira Spring Connector closer to the Balcony.

The stream is a raging river right now. I didn't see an obvious, safe way across where Ajax stood so I turned us around.
Museum Creek is a raging river right now. I didn’t see an obvious, safe way across where Ajax stood so I turned us around.

Once Ajax stood safely beside me, however, I glanced around. Several rock “islands” stuck out to the left (low) of the fastest part of the stream. Maybe we could cross there.

With Ajax watching on the bank, I carefully made my way across several large pieces of wood someone had placed on top of stones. Safely across, I turned and called Ajax.

Heart in my throat, I watched as he paused and shook out his nervousness. Then, determined not to be left behind, he promptly joined me.

Relieved that we’d made it across, I gave him lots of lavish “good boy!” praise. As we continued, I wondered whether the continued snow melt would cause us greater difficulty on the way back. We’d literally have to “cross that bridge” when we came to it. Onward, to find snow.

Happy author selfie. Anything that gets me outdoors to fresh air, birdsong, solitude, and beauty makes me smile. And when I think we've reached our turnaround point but I find a safe way forward, I'm even happier.
Happy author selfie. Anything that gets me outdoors to fresh air, birdsong, solitude, and beauty makes me smile. And when I think we’ve reached our turnaround point but I find a safe way forward, I’m even happier.

Make Good Decisions About How Long to Rest

At a lovely spot half a mile beyond the stream crossing, we took a ten-minute break. I felt pretty confident we would not see any other hikers behind us. After all, only dedicated and experienced hikers would brave that stream crossing. And only insane people would be up this high so early!

Several large trees have been carved into lovely benches where hikers can sit and enjoy the view. We were almost to the steepest part, so I gave Ajax a snack and some water while I shot several photos.

The author's selfie was taken while reclining on a carved tree bench roughly 1.5 miles from the summit.
The author’s selfie was taken while reclining on a carved tree bench roughly 1.5 miles from the summit.

Recharged, we easily stepped across numerous small stream crossings, covering the last 1.5 miles pretty comfortably. The trail includes some unrelenting switchbacks, and we reached snow about .5-.75 miles from the summit for the rest of the hike.

Where to Enjoy the Views?

From Dirty Harry’s Peak, you can look north, west, or south. The day we hiked, smoke from Canadian wildfires obscured most of Mt. Rainier to the south. My DSLR 100-400 mm lens would have been useless. Glad I didn’t carry it!

For our summit visit, we found a shaded spot on the far west end of the ridge where the snow had already melted. Ajax promptly plopped down to relax. I pulled out my foam sit pad and reclined, looking into the blue sky. As soon as I’d gotten comfortable, a gray jay (or ‘camp robber’, as some people call them) ventured close enough for a good shot on my phone.

Ajax approves of our summit spot out of the sun.
Ajax approves of our summit spot out of the sun.
A gray jay joins us hoping for handouts.
A gray jay joins us hoping for handouts.

After enjoying the views for half an hour, I packed everything up and we made our way to the “other summit” to check out the view to the north. I hoped we could see Glacier Peak and Mt. Baker; the haze made that impossible. But we spotted a lake I later identified as rounded Granite Lake, straight below us, with snow patches in places.

Granite Lake is due north of Dirty Harry's Peak.
Granite Lake is due north of Dirty Harry’s Peak.
A melting snow bridge near the north summit.
A melting snow bridge near the north summit.

My stomach dropped when I noticed what Ajax was standing on. Below him, the narrow snow bridge was rapidly melting. If it gave way… Fortunately, Ajax responds to my voice commands. He abruptly trotted to my side to lavish praise. Now, at the halfway point, we had to get down safely. The toughest part would be that stream.

Should We Include A Side Trip?

The trip down included interesting exchanges with eighteen single or paired hikers headed up. “Cross low,” I told them about the stream. I winced when I spotted a snake slithering across the trail in front of me. Fortunately, Ajax was exploring something behind me and didn’t see it.

There was also the issue of crossing Museum Creek again. We heard running water before we saw it. And twenty paces from it, Ajax came to an abrupt halt. Did he remember the first time? Could I coax him across again? I gave him another water and food break (lucky dog!) He’d done it before; could he do it again?

In order to make good decisions about this stream crossing, I had to look for an alternate route. Ajax succeeded with his second stream crossing at 10:30 a.m.
In order to make good decisions about this stream crossing, I had to look for an alternate route. Ajax succeeded with his second stream crossing at 10:30 a.m.

With a little coaxing, he scampered right across the stream, choosing his own way, reminding me of the pair of mountain goats I’d spotted on Dirtybox Peak situated between Mailbox and Dirty Harry’s Peak. Relieved and feeling invincible, I searched for the north turnoff for Dirty Harry’s Museum.

Dirty Harry’s Museum

There is no sign for the “entry” into the woods like there is for the trail itself. A small rock cairn sits on a large boulder directly across from a dark narrow opening in the trees. And once you enter the opening and head steeply upward, there are bright ribbons marking the way.

Ajax followed me for several minutes until the trail met the stream and opened up to Harry Gault’s rusty truck. I’ve only visited this particular destination once before, so we took a few minutes to explore the truck before heading down in earnest.

Harry Gault's truck, what is known as Dirty Harry's Museum.
Harry Gault’s truck, what is known as Dirty Harry’s Museum.

Make Good Decisions: When Enough Is Enough

Once we returned to Dirty Harry’s Balcony around 11:15, I stopped for Ajax to have the rest of his kibble. I could tell his energy after visiting all three destinations. I paused to enjoy birdsong and chatted with another hiker until it looked like Ajax was ready. Only two miles to go! I estimated that keeping on our pace, we’d reach the car by 12:30.

But my pooped pup had had more than enough. A mile from the car he plopped down and wouldn’t go any farther. I considered carrying him but I knew that would just result in both of us being exhausted. So instead, I pulled out my sit pad, found a good rest spot, and let him take a brief nap.

No. More. Momma. When Ajax plops down and refuses to go on, I know he's reached his limit, much like I did on Mt. Wrightson. In order to make good decisions, consider all in your party. I knew all we could do is take a break.
No. More. Momma. When Ajax plops down and refuses to go on, I know he’s reached his limit, much like I did on Mt. Wrightson. In order to make good decisions, consider all in your party. I knew all we could do is take a break.

After a fifteen-minute break, he’d stopped panting, but he still lagged behind me. I finally secured his leash to his harness and coaxed him down to the car. He’d clearly reached his max.

Takeaways

As we head into summer, some of my top takeaways from this experience include the following tips:

  • Consider all party members’ strengths and weaknesses. I plan early morning trips so Ajax will be more comfortable. And if the forecast is for temperatures much above 75 degrees Fahrenheit, we stay local.
  • Choose destinations wisely. Granite Mountain and Dirty Harry’s Peak are two trails I’ve decided are best done with Ajax in the fall or spring when there is plenty of snowmelt or cooler temperatures from shade and cloud cover.
  • Consider destinations with rivers or lakes to cool off when it gets hot.
  • Study trip reports on such websites as Washington Trails Association to learn about conditions ahead of time. Knowing the stream was running high helped me be prepared both with a stick and with alternatives.
  • Be okay with changing the destination – go farther or shorten the trip depending on party preparation.
  • Listen to your party members, canine or human. If they show signs of needing a break, provide one. Pressing on may only make matters worse.
Indian paintbrush.
Indian paintbrush.

What top takeaways can you share about any of your recent learning experiences in the mountains? Share them in the comments so we can all benefit.

Published by Courtenay Schurman

Co-author of The Outdoor Athlete (2009) and Train to Climb Mt. Rainier or Any High Peak DVD (2002), author of Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills/conditioning chapter 4 (3 editions), and Peak Performance column for the Mountaineers Mag (2014-present). Member of PNWA, SCBWI, EPIC. Served on the steering committee for WOTS (2019-present). Completed UW Certificate program for Children's Literature and Memoir. Co-owner of Body Results, Inc. in Seattle. Climb leader with Seattle Mountaineers for over 15 years. Volunteer at Woodland Park Zoo since 2014.

2 replies on “How To Make Good Decisions on Dirty Harry’s Peak”

  1. Thanks for sharing your adventure with us. You are unbelievable. I wish everyone taking their dogs with them will be like you, making sure the trail is right for the puppy. Here on the Island the biggest risk is there is no water on the trail. So you have to carry lots of it if you are for a long hike.

    I just finished a 23-km challenging solo hike this past weekend. It is a remote hike with no a lot of traffic. It is often done as an overnight backpack. I hiked it in 9-hr. It is a long climb 11.5 km to a small lake. The last 3-km to the lake were steeper and the route was hard to find. Last km was on dirty snow. Highly recommended to have a GPS with you, which I used myself. I also flagged my route. I lost my route 2 times but I was able to find it back. I brought with me a bivy bag, sleeping bag, extra food and clothes in case I have to spend a night out. I also had to cross a creek, water was to my knee. I had water shoes with me. This was perfect for relaxing your feet.

    I am so happy I am still hiking strong and I have no intention to stop yet. I am still hiking 2-3 times a week, solo. I am planning to do more solo backpacking. Hopefully I can do that until I am in my 80s.😳

    1. And thanks for sharing YOUR adventure as well. It sounds like the GPS was useful to you. Have you ever run into a problem with it not working? I admit with Ajax along I stick to trails I know something about so the element of getting lost is gone (I don’t use GPS) but I realize that cuts out a lot of fascinating options yet to be explored. Tech is great… until it fails. Then old school intuition, map, and compass are our steadfast friends. I’m hoping you can hike into your 90s. I saw a wonderful video about Betty Reid Soskin https://www.npr.org/2022/04/01/1090301724/betty-reid-soskin-park-ranger-retires-age-100 which was from a journaling class. This national park ranger started at age 85 and retired at age 100. Where there’s a will, there’s a way. Keep on hiking!

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